Whatch Fashion Editor Dorothea Gundtoft´s AW//12 Show moments in pictures, on VOGUE Italia.
onsdag den 8. februar 2012
søndag den 5. februar 2012
FashionWeekLive.com
The collection was perfectly executed, using only the most delicate materials – it stated that men’s fashion is all about attention to quality and controlled-wearable-liberty.
www.FashionWeekLive.com
AW//12 - Fashion Forum
Review: Jean//Phillip AW12
It was a continuation and further development of the last collection, Jean//Phillips bids for Fall fashion. Thus, it was still an exploration of samurai warriors and the ancient Japanese lines. Under the title The Arcane Aftermath The Location was shinning, in a frosty morning, which was the setting for the show.
And it started out terrific. Like the dark designers use of color is this fair to say hold your hat, for after the first gray input came - hold your hat - light blue. It had not been seen to come from Jean//Phillip, huh?
Refreshingly light
First, it was refreshing with a bit of bright color from the designer - it is unlikely clad clothes well and made it easier, less obscure and more ... delicate? The delicate set against the masculine went up into a higher unity, which for a long jumper with hood that flowed on the model. It came also in an excellent and more raw version in black, but blue won the title.
The inspiration is - like in the last collection - quite subtle, and should probably be viewed more as an overall rank for the designer. In a pair of gray high-waisted pants with drawstring at side the reference was clear.
Darker part
After opening on the bright side of the collection followed a darker portion of dusty gray. Frayed edges of jackets and blouses of washed linen, thin jersey, cashmere and washed lamb leather went back from the bright to the dark, but seemed quite different diverst in black than in delicate blue. But there is a red wire and Jean//Phillips DNA is intact - the materials and the expression is, like the oxidized zippers are a signature. Chewing on jackets and with the opportunity both to zip up and down simultaneously on blouses.
Two bags were introduced, covered with swakara-fur, and this marked the transition to the designer's two fur coats, also in swakara that ended the show. A close-fitting coat with slanted zipper and a light coloring on the shoulders was beautiful, just as the show's last - a blazer with dark gray swakara with light stripes and dark leather sleeves. Skillfully designed and a great way to work with fur - a relief to see men's coat, that was heavy in Swakara.
Adulthood
Points for it, and well set - because you could easily see them hang in an expensive boutique in Paris along with the rest of the collection - and be purchased. It was grown, which highlighted the models' hair roots, which were colored gray. Show aesthetics, perhaps, but also a good indication that it has become more mature.
The use of colors and coat also marked this in a collection that gracefully swept to the top as one of the designer's best, with the opening and ending of the show as highlights. The development continues then in a positive direction and indicates that Jean//Phillip in increasingly have designed toward an audience that can embrace the brand and lift it to a larger sale.
www.FashionForum.dk
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